Why burn beeswax?
In short, we choose beeswax for better indoor air quality, for your health and to respect our environment. Beeswax is made from the nectars and pollens of Mother Nature with the assistance of the ever-so-special bee.

Paraffin, which used for conventional candles, is a crude petroleum by-product, a grayish sludge that is bleached (creating dioxins), textured using carcinogenic chemicals, coloured with artificial colourants and scented with synthetic aromas that produce flourocarbons when burned.

Long-lasting beeswax candles make the most economical candle choice.

Available Colour: Golden

Burn Times and Sizes:

CG1: 80-100 hrs / 2.5" x 3.5"
CG2: 150-180 hrs / 2.5" x 6.5"
CG3: 250-300 hrs / 2.5" x 10.5"

TL5: 150-180 hrs / 3.5" x 3"
TL6: 250-300 hrs / 3.5" x 5"
TL7: 500-700 hrs / 3.5" x 8.5"
TL8: 900-1000 hrs / 3.5" x 12.5"

EF10: 1600-2000 hrs / 4.5" x 10"
EF11: 2500-3000 hrs / 4.5" x 14.5"

TRP14: 4500-5000 hrs / 7.5" x 13"

Please note that larger candles will take slightly longer to fulfill, as they are not regular stock.

These special candles burn remarkably well, however, there are a few things you need to know before becoming a Candle Master:

Never burn a candle unattended, nor burning in a draft and never burn paraffin candles at the same time as you burn beeswax candles, as the ions created by the beeswax will collect the black soot of the paraffin and make it all too evident on your ceilings, walls, etc.

Lighting: The wick in these candles are quite 'substantial' and are best lit using a lighter, wooden match or barbeque lighter. 'Tilting' the candle gets 'under' the wick allowing the flame to ignite easily.

Extinguishing: Beeswax candles should be 'put out' using a candle snuffer or better yet, by 'dunking' the wick into the pool of liquid wax and straightening it up again. (For a 'dunk stick', use a small stick, chopstick or pencil.

When re-lighting your candle, trim the wick to 1/4" (5mm). The height of the wick determines the size of the flame, which affects the width to which the pool melts. The larger the flame, the wider the pool will melt. Hence, an un-trimmed (unwatched) wick WILL cause the pool to melt past the edge, creating a melt down. This creates a mess and greatly shortens the life of your candle. Each wick has been cut to the proper size when purchased.

A Pheylonian candle with 2" - 2.5" diameter will burn close to the edge, leave a wax wall around the perimeter (given that the wick is trimmed between 1/4' - 3/8"). This wall can be used very effectively to adjust the height of the wick, without trimming. When softened, gently push the walls into the pool of wax, using an even pressure all around (Be careful pusing in the sides, as the wax is very hot). This procedure raises the level of the pool, thus shortening the wick and allowing all of the candle to be used as fuel. Do not push too much in at first because as it melts, it can flood the wick. If the pool is about to melt through the side wall, immediately put it out. Let the candle cool until hardened. Then, trim the wick to 1/4" and re-light it again.

Use shavings to ''top up' the pool rather than pushing the side in or trimming the wick.

100% Cappings beeswax. Cappings are the thin layer of pure beeswax which seal in the fresh honey into each comb. Beekeepers remove this to extract the honey. By law, there can be as little as 10% beeswax in a candle and it can be sold as 'Pure Beeswax'. Generic yellowy-yellow beeswax candles are made from comb and foundation wax which are commercially manufactured, dyed and can contain up to 30 - 40% paraffin. This wax will not burn with a golden halo, nor will it emit negative ions.